Thursday, July 16, 2009

Day 10: Phnom Phen - how can this be the capital?



At breakfast down the street from our hostel, 5 women dressed in perfectly matching blue outfits (complete with dresses, shoes, hats, scarfs, and purses), walked in to market Winston cigarettes. They were giving all the locals free cigs, and we just couldn't miss out on the fun. When they came to our table, they gave us each a smoke, lit them, smiled at us professionally, and asked if we would like to buy their promotional 2-pack with free lighter. For a single USD we couldn't refuse, and now we have 40 cigarettes, a funny story, and a souvenir.

We headed to the Genocide museum in the city, where we learned about the Khmer Rouge genocide of the 70s - something neither of us had ever learned about. We then departed on tuk tuk to the Killing Fields, 15 km outside the city, which took 45 minutes. Driving speeds in this city average about 20 km/hr, not because of congestion, but instead because of their unique culture, not to mention the limitations of their engines. Going through an intersection in this city is like a game of chicken. There are no stop signs or street lights. Instead, everyone slows to a crawl, finds a gap in traffic, and proceeds across the street. It is one of the more interesting things to witness, as if the cars are literally weaving through one another.

It's not accurate to call what we saw Killing Fields. It's more like a (singular) Killing Lawn. Not to be disrespectful, but the entire place was the size of a typical suburban American backyard. Granted, thousands were killed in the complex, but when they claimed that the ordeal was crueler than the Holocaust, we quickly lost interest. In our opinions, genocides should not compete on the basis of cruelity.

We had done virtually all there was to do in this city - even our guide book was at a lack for recommendations. So, we headed to the local market, had 50 cent bowls of extremely traditional, and extremely tasty soup, and toured the Royal Palace. Danny commented that the King of Cambodia should visit Versailles to see what a palace should really look like. Honestly, there are homes in Montecito that are more impressive. Maybe a visit to Oprah's house would help, too.

One last note. This is the 6th internet cafe that we tried before being allowed in. The previous 5, which were each no more than a quarter full of people, were reserved for World of Warcraft players only. We could not believe it. What a country - no wonder they remain third world. (sorry, Cambodia, but that is completely illogical business practice).

2 comments:

  1. Your description of the Winston Ladies reminded me of the dancing Chesterfields on the Ed Sullivan Show years ago AND the fact that you used to get a small pack of four (five?) cigarettes with your meal on airplanes!!

    The Killing Fields venue surprises me. They made a movie with that title in the mid-eighties. If you doubt the reality of what went on there you should see the movie... really.

    It is so wonderful to read about your adventures. Thank you so much. Always remember there are people at home who are counting on your safe return!!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Please try not to pick up any bad habits during your travels. We are wondering who is actually authoring these blog entries. This post had a bit of Dave Sedaris type humor and since you often refer to yourselves in the first person we can't tell whose voice we are listening to.

    ReplyDelete